16
Aug

Completion in Cairo!

   Posted by: Ania Kelvin   in Trans Africa + NZ Adventures

The end of our Africa Travels are almost complete. We have successfully arrived in Cairo, and despite all Africa could throw at us we have succeeded to arrive on time having completed the entire route overland!!! It’s been a wild ride, and we have many Fantastic Memories to bore you all with when we get a chance to meet up, not to mention photos galore! ;)

When we left you, we were in Kenetic Khartoum and have now travelled to Crazy Cairo! Of the highlights from our travels north, one impressive memory was of the Nubian Desert! We were travelling in over 50 degree heat, and on a few occasions digging Nala (our Trans-Truck) out of the sand, but for the Stunning Vista it was all worth it! We camped out under the stars, just sleeping on grass mats. To see the stars so clear almost took your breath away! We had the option to take a tarseal road which followed the Nile, but why do that when the adventure of making your own road through the desert is so enticing!!! It was like the desert was ours alone to explore, and what a vast expanse it is! The only sign of human technology, except for the myriad of old tyre-tracks kris-crossing all over the sand, was the power lines beside the railway. We had to keep these in view most of the time, otherwise we still might be lost out in the desert now!

Finally, after 3 days, we arrived in Wadi Halfa where we were to catch our ferry into Egypt! Wadi Halfa is a small Oasis town, where life is conducted at a slow pace. To be honest you wouldn’t want to move too fast on account of the incredible heat! The people are very friendly & welcoming, and on offer is some of the best Sudanese food you’ll ever try! We celebrated Mike’s (S & M’s) birthday outside the establishment of a man we now affectionately call “The Falafel Man”! The following day he worked extra hard to supply a number of us with Fresh Falafel for our ferry ride!

The ferry was also an experience. Getting through all the official paperwork at the port was time consuming, but thank goodness we had a nice building to wait in, rather than standing outside in the sun! Once on the ferry, we set up our areas with tarps overhead and blankets on the deck. As you can imagine, the deck of the boat, being metal, was the temperature of a frying pan! Other than the heat, the ferry crossing past relatively smoothly. We departed Sudan at about 5pm, and were lucky to being passing Abu Simbel at approx 9:30pm. It was all under lights, awaiting our arrival in 2 days!

Our arrival into Egypt was nowhere near as smooth or easy as our departure from the Sudan. The less said about Egyptian Border Bureacracy the better! Needless to say we finally arrived into our accomodation in Aswan relieved to be in Egypt, our final country on the Trans! We quickly indulged in some McD’s, the first since South Africa, before organising ourselves for the activities we had on offer. The first was Abu Simbel, and what an impressive temple it is! A tourist destination if there ever was one! We were all glad that we arrived on the early convoy! It was an extra special visit for Lindsay on our trip, as it was her birthday, and we celebrated in true local style with a group meal and some local dancing later that evening!

We had a chance to rest & relax, taking the opportunity to have dinner in a Nubian village across the river from Aswan, before the 2 day excursion down the Nile on a felucca! Ania, along with the rest of our group went on the river, however I decided to travel to Luxor on the truck with our driver Jay, as I had experienced the feluccas before. Luxor still holds the relaxing charm from when I first travelled Egypt 10 years ago! It has definitely changed in appearance, as had Aswan, but the magic of this ancient capital lingers, tempting your travel-buds with historical & mystical intrigue! Long has Luxor (the ancient city of Thebes) been attracting people, especially when you can visit the ‘Valley of the Kings‘, Colossus of Memnon, Queen Hatshepsut’s Temple, and the ever omnipresent KARNAK! We all welcomed the opportunity to visit these spectacular testaments of Egyptian history. Revelling in the copious stories woven & inscribed on their rocks! We also indulged in some souvenir shopping, especially silver! Thank you Tarek for all your assistance and friendship - your shop & your friendship has been a highlight!

We left Luxor, not for the madcap streets of Cairo, but for the quiet expanses of the Western Desert. It was one last throw of the ‘remoteness’ dice, and we all wanted to gaze upon those gorgeously clear stars one more time! We travelled this time on a tarseal road, but come the late afternoon/early evening it was back to off-road to find an appropriate desert camp. The first night saw us gurded by the Egyptian Tourist Police, which although slightly uncomfortable for some (their van was parked no more than 3m from where Ania & I were sleeping on a grass mat!), was considerate, even though safety is not too much of an issue at all. The last 2 nights we camped safely by ourselves, indulging in that oldest of past-times - ’star-gazing’! We all helped with our final 2 bush-camp meals, before setting off back to civilisation & Cairo!

We have now been here for a few days now! The Pyramids have been viewed, admired, and even entered into, along with an insightful description of the relevant history by our guide Michael. He also guided us around the Egyptian Museum, pointing out all the highlights and giving us a thorough account of their importance to Egyptian history. Tutankamun’s burial treasure is just one of the sensational exhibits on display! Islamic Cairo has many enticing points of historical interests, not forgetting, of course, Khan-el-Khalili the tourist market! We spent a few hours wandering the alleyways, admiring sales techniques even if the products were tacky!!!

Now we are faced with our final day here in the largest city in Africa! The temperature is a mild 38 degrees, however I’m sitting in an air-conditioned room writing this! We’ll wander Cairo some more before sitting down to a lovely meal and of course one final African Shisha! No doubt tomorrow will bring a few moments of quiet reflection, then our final goodbyes before a mad dash race across Cairo to the airport, afterall - TIA!!!

Thanks to you all for following our travels. We hope you have enjoyed the stories & photos as much as we enjoyed writing them. Over the next few months we will post updates on our web-blog, so please keep a lookout if you’re interested! Thanks again for all your support and encouragement, without it we would not have pushed through those hard days!

We can’t completely finish there though. Ania & I would like to extend to both Kate & Jay our undying gratitude for all they have done for us on this trip! Without them we would not have acheived this FANTASTIC ADVENTURE!!! Words alone cannot express our thanks!

22
Jul

Khartoum

   Posted by: Ania Kelvin   in Trans Africa + NZ Adventures

Hello My Travel Story Pals!

I am sincerely sorry for my gross negligence at keeping you all informed of our African Trail Progress! Things have certainly sped up since we arrived down in South Africa, and we are trying to make the most of every opportunity!Currently we are in Khartoum, Sudan! This is one of the cities I most wanted to visit! It’s a Fantastic city, full of much construction not to mention the incredibly friendly and helpful Sudanese! But before I ramble too much, here is a quick precis of our trip from South Africa!

After visiting Jo’Burg, we caught up with our truck and travelled the Garden Route, including such places as Jeffreys Bay (Billabong Factory Shop), Tsitsikamma (World’s Highest Commercial Bungy - 216m), Oudtshoorn (Ostrich Farm & Kango Caves) Cape Agulhas (Southern Most Point of Africa), before arriving in Capetown!

While in this stunning city we had the distinct pleasure of staying with a very good friend of ours - Wessel - and his parents. We were treated to home cooked meals & had our own tour guide around the city. We visited Robben Island, Table Mountain, not to mention some of  the Fantastic Vineyards in the surrounding area! We were treated to a Brilliant Day out with Pieter and Annatjie (Wessel’s parents) around Stellenbosch & Franschhoek!

We then rejoined our group in Citrusdal, where we travelled to Orange river on the border with Namibia, before enjoying the sights of Fish River Canyon & Sossusvlei. These views were quickly followed by a few days in Swakopmund, where we engaged in some Quad Biking, a Dolphin Cruise and a Township tour where we were fortunate to meet the Damara chief - a 91 year old woman! We then visited Spitzkoppe (famous rock formations), and the Cape Coast Seal Colony - and gosh do they stink!!!

Cheetah Park presented us with the start of  the wildlife trail, as we then went onto Etosha National Park and the Okovango Delta! And what a great experience they all were! We got up close & personal with the Cheetahs, before assisting in feeding them, saw our first wild lioness on a hunt, and got within 15 metres of 4 Male Elephants in the delta! And the thrills didn’t stop there! Victoria Falls was next, where

we not only were drenched by them, but also flew over them in a Microlite!

After a quick visit to Livingstone, Zambia - we spent some time in Zimbabwe. It has recently only again opened up to tourists after it’s political rollercoaster of the last few years. We made a brief stop in Bulawayo, where we had an educational day excursion into Matopos National Park. Andy was our guide & tracker, who spent time teaching us about the bush & wildlife. We also finished the day having tracked 2 White Rhino and were able to spend some time with them literally 10m away! Great Zimbabwe, the old city of trade & commerce was a worthy visit, before we entered Antelope Park, Gweru! This has proved to be an amazing highlight, as we enjoyed Lion walks, Cub walks, Elephant rides, not to forget the night we joined 2 male lions from the breeding programme on a hunt! Antelope Park will also remain in our fond memories also for the people we met - especially Darren (one of the volunteers) and our guide Fanuel! A journey through Zimbabwe wouldn’t be complete without a jaunt into Harare. We only spent a day in the city, but it was an intersting experience. We both sincerely hope this wonderful country can one day retain it’s former glory!

Mozambique’s Tete Corridor was the briefest of country stops before we entered Lilongwe, capital of Malawi. We had a re-freshing experience in the large food market, having missed traditional African markets! Kande Beach provided us with a lovely lake view & relaxing 3 day respite, where we enjoyed a local Village Meal, roasted 2 pigs and rode the famous Kande horses!

Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania was our springboard to Zanzibar - Spice Island & Gorgeous Beaches. Stone Town also entertained us with it’s – bustling markets, narrow streets, and the ever delicious Foridani Gardens - local food Zanzibar style! Arusha was next on the menu with Serengeti & Ngorongoro Crater as the main course. I won’t bore you with the details - just look at the photos!!!

Nairobi was our first taste of Kenya, before we enjoyed the sights of Nukuru National Park on our way to the Mountain Gorillas! We stopped briefly in Kampala & Kabale in Uganda (to return later), as we raced to get to Kigali, Rwanda. We had an afternoon visiting the city, especially the Genocide Museum, then it was onto Ruhengari and the famous Mountain Gorillas. We had a half day trek to the Hirwa ‘Lucky’ Family, where we got some great photos and an interesting piece of video footage, which we may upload. However it will have to be X-rated!!!

We backtracked through Uganda, indulging in some White-water rafting at Jinga (source of the mighty Nile River), as well as assisting the Soft Power Education Project paint a building of a school! Lake Navaisha, Kenya brought us very close with the most dangerous animal in Africa – the Hippo. It sounds unusual, but more tourist deaths are attributed to Hippo attacks rather than  Lion attacks. Perhaps that childhood game ‘Hungry Hungry Hippo’ was accurate after all!

Back in Nairobi we prepared for the final leg of the trip! After saying our goodbyes to some travel companions, we hit the road for Northern Kenya. An experience it was, but in some ways the least said about it, the better! We were all pretty excited to reach Ethiopia - despite their issues with water & power supply!

Addis Ababa was a revelation! We both thoroughly enjoyed the people, food, & culture. Within a very short space of time Ethiopia won our hearts, and is definitely a country we hope to return too! Bahir Dar was our launch pad to Lalibela, which amazed us with it’s ‘rock hewn churches’. While Gondar presented us with interesting stories of political conspiracy & intrigue!

Now we find ourselves in the Sudan with our African Adventure almost at an end! However the FUN has not stopped, and neither have the stories!

I know this has been a very quick overview of our travels. I hope it provided some entertainment for you. I will endeavour to elaborate on our adventures when I get the chance, but please check the photos!!!

Thank you again my Avid Listeners! Until next time!

 

PS. I hope you like the update Sam - we wish you and Colin the best of travels!

19
Jul

Ethiopia

   Posted by: Ania Kelvin   in Trans Africa + NZ Adventures

Sorry, this entry is only available in Polski.

We’ve had an amazing time on our 2.5 days safari in the Ngorongoro and Serengeti. We managed to see the BIG FIVE in 24 hours! The scenery added to the experience - the crater views are simply breathtaking. For animal viewing one didn’t even need to have binoculars or a big zoom lense. We saw lions when they crossed our path! I never thought we were going to have our wild animals encounter this close. AMAZING! We absolutely loved it.

If you have a spare moment visit this site: http://www.serengeti.org/

We hope to add some of our photos soon.

Today we’re in Nakuru NP and have already seen 20 rhinos, a lioness, water buffalo, zebras, giraffes and millions (I think!) of pink flamingos! Tomorrow we’re off to Uganda and then Rwanda. Then the long-awaited Gorilla trekking!

1
Jun

Kande Beach, Malawi

   Posted by: Ania Kelvin   in Trans Africa + NZ Adventures

Malawi and its beautiful lake will definitely be well remembered! Yesterday we went horse riding and the adventure was nicely finished off with a swim in the lake. The swim was a little extraordinary since we went swimming with the horses! All this while we’re on the horses’ backs (no saddle). A fantastic experience!

We’re trying to catch up with some overdue updates to this blog.  With current internet access it’s not very easy. However we will if we can.

On Friday we’ll be catching a ferry to Zanzibar and we’re planning on staying on the island for 3 nights. Until next entry. Xoxoxoxo

19
May

Namibia to Zimbabwe

   Posted by: Ania Kelvin   in Trans Africa + NZ Adventures

Sorry, this entry is only available in Polski.

25
Apr

Afryka - zachod/wschod

   Posted by: Ania Kelvin   in Trans Africa + NZ Adventures

Sorry, this entry is only available in Polski.

23
Apr

Cape Town

   Posted by: Ania Kelvin   in Trans Africa + NZ Adventures

Sorry, this entry is only available in Polski.

9
Apr

South Africa at last!- Johannesburg

   Posted by: Ania Kelvin   in Trans Africa + NZ Adventures

Last we left you, we were in Windhoek. While we were there we acquired information regarding Ania’s Visa application for Malawi. Instead of obtaining it in CapeTown like we’d hoped, we had to leave the Truck & journey to Johannesburg. We caught an overnight bus lasting 26 hours from Windhoek to Jo’Burg. Once there we stayed at the ‘Backpackers Ritz’ which is in a lovely part of the city. We had been told to keep our eyes & ears peeled while in Jo’Burg, as the city can often present challenging issues for the unwary traveller. Our first impressions of this city were very positive. We spent most of our time trying to source a way to obtain Ania’s Visa quickly, however the Malawian Embassy was proving hard to track down. First the address we had was incorrect, then they had a country holiday meaning the Embassy wasn’t open. This was going to set us back a few days considering the application process was reported to be at least 10 working days & we had arrived on the start of a weekend! Since there wasn’t much we could do, we decided to enjoy some of the things Jo’Burg had to offer. A SOWETO township tour was the first experience we embarked upon, and what an adventure that was too! Our guide was a very enthusiastic guy called Max. He had been born & breed within the township, and the stories he had to tell! SOWETO is larger than we thought, and has greatly improved since the days of apartheid. Most people now own their homes, the streets are all paved, and the area now has modern shopping malls not to mention 2 of the stadiums to be used in the 2010 Football World Cup! We were taken to Mandela’s old house which is on Vilakazi Street, just up the road from Desmond Tutu’s place. This is the only street in the world in which 2 Nobel Peace Prize winners have lived! We also visited the Hector Pietersen museum, which is an exhibition reviewing the years of apartheid, but also that tragic day in July 1977, when what was meant to be a peaceful protest turned into a violent street riot. We finished the tour with a beer or two in a local bar - which is actually someone’s private garage turned into a pool table room serving beers! Our next foray was something of the nature kind, we were off to Lion Park! This was a nifty little morning trip, where we were able to encounter for the first time these Big Cats, not to mention Zebras, Giraffes, Ostriches, Impala, Cheetahs & Hyenas! We we

re also allowed into a small enclosure where we could play with 3-4 month old lion cubs! Needless to say many photos were taken!!! We spent the remainder of our weekend in between shopping malls, & watching movies. This wasn’t due to the fact that we lacked desire to discover more, but because, for the first time on the trip, both of us were suffering a major stomach bug! We would only eventually recover from this just before we entered CapeTown. The start of the week brought renewed hope re: Ania’s Visa. Upon spending an hour or so at the Malawian Embassy, we were informed that Ania’s application would be processed in 24 hours, which was Fantastic. This enabled us to leave Jo’Burg the following evening via another coach, and catch up with our truck in Jeffreys Bay, just before the Garden Route!

We’re currently in Windhoek, Namibia relaxing after a few long days on the road! We arrived a coupla days ago to sighs of contentment as many of us felt we had returned to home comforts. Infact Namibia is often referred to, by West African travellers, as ‘The Promised Land‘! And in some ways it is. There’s all the trappings of home we recognise - Shopping Malls, Paved Sidewalks, KFC, not to mention other comforts. We must admit, it’s not that we have long desired all these reminders of home, however it is a nice surprise sometimes to indulge in that which you know!

 

Well, where do we start with the continuing saga…

 

We last left you in Brazzaville, Congo where we were preparing for 1 week of continuous travel - or so we thought at the time. Brazzaville was a treat, as we never expected to visit this city! You marvel at this city, which has experienced much trauma over the last few years, evident in the bullet holes in buildings. It is trying very hard to re-invent itself, and is doing a good job, however it will take time. The people of the city were astounded to see us in many ways, as Brazza is no longer a favoured destination???!!! We were welcomed mostly with generous smiles & energetic greetings whenever we engaged in conversation. The street markets were an eclectic array of various stalls selling anything you want, providing you negotiate! As with many African markets a assault of the senses with noise, sights & the invariable smells!!! I don’t believe I can do Brazzaville justice with description, other than to say we would love to return here again someday!

 

We left Brazza via spending about half a day at the port which links it to Kinshasa. Now hears a wee fact for you, Brazza & Kinshasa are the closest capital cities in the World, they are literally about 3kms from each other. For us Kinshasa was a FANTASTIC surprise. We had only hoped to visit this Amazing City, and at last we had the opportunity! However, as you may appreciate this city is reknowned for the unexpected, and we were treated with exactly that. We were required as part of our entry into the DRC to say where we were staying, and as there are no recognised ’safe’ places to camp in Kinshasa, we had contacted a local gentleman to help us. He was unable to offer us a similar arrangement that we had in Abuja, Nigeria (re: our Sheraton experience), but him and his wife allowed us to park up inside there home compound. And what a compound it was to! They allowed us the use of a one bedroom flat they had at the back of their compound, which had a small kitchen, power shower, and cable TV!!! We all indulged ourselves with a small treat of comfort before the roads of Angola! We cooked a meal in a kitchen, watched a movie on TV, & had a soothing shower with warm/hot water, not to mention cold milk for breakfast!!! In the morning we departed early for Matadi, & the border of Angola! And as described earlier, this city left us with an unexpected memory, it looked absolutely stunning spread over its many hills, with the mighty Congo river gliding past in the early morning sun!

 

Matadi was our jumping point into Angola, and it was a day that started for most of us with a few nerves. We had spent the night at a convent in the city, having also marvelled at its markets & again admired the powerful but unassuming Congo. We spent a few hours on the DRC side of the border, only to cross with limited hassle to Angola. There we were subjected to awaiting for the relevant officials to arrive and sign the appropriate documents. By early afternoon we were on our way with 5 days to cross the 1900kms of Angola! And how interesting a task that proved to be. By the end of the 3rd day we had only covered about a third of the distance due to road conditions. Time was not on our side! The roads started to improve, & we thought our luck had turned only to be consistently snatched away, as conditions kept changing. We were unlucky with our time, as we arrived at the border 2 days late. But the country is remarkably beautiful! The vistas around the central plateau were some of the best views we’ve seen all trip! The people were genuinely glad to see us travelling through their country, and as for the excitement of the children - their smiles & laughter is something we’ll never forget. Despite our late arrival at the border, we were eventually excused from the fine we expected to pay - another example of African generosity!

 

We have only been in Namibia for a short time, but this country is already proving to be something special. We are only visiting briefly before heading off to South Africa. We are due to come back on our return leg back up the continent, so we well indulge in explaning more about this expansive and awe inspiring country in a few weeks!

 

Until then our Avid Adventure Listeners, we bid you farewell, as we are off discover many more African Experiences!!!