G’Day Girls & Guys!!!

Yes I know, a word that can describe my lack of communication is SLACK!!! Sorry for the failure to keep the blog up-to-date! I’m endeavouring to get on top of that before we enter into the next stage of our travels! However Ania has posted some of her Illustrative Imagery, and as they say ‘pictures speak a 1000 words’!

It’s TRUE! We’re entering the last week of our time here in SE Asia! 6 months goes by so quickly! Our recent reflections on our travels have reminded us of the Amazing Experiences we’ve had, and the Fantastic People we’ve had the pleasure to meet!!! People are generally the same all over the world, and a SMILE in any country you visit is ALWAYS appreciated!

In the last story blog we posted you heard we were about to fly out of Saigon. Our trip has since taken us down through Southern Thailand visiting the Islands of Koh Tao & Koh Phayam & enjoying the relaxing atmospheres both offshore retreats offered us! Ao Phang Nga was a revelation, as we never expected such beautiful scenery & we felt ourselves reminiscing about Halong Bay! Krabi, with it’s night food market, was a culinary treat enhanced by meeting our friends from Singapore! The journey South to Malaysia was a return to a truly local adventure, while we said goodbye, for now, to some of the most electrifyingly tasty food of the whole trip!

Our first impression of Malaysia was from Langkawi, and island just of the north-western coast. A small group of us hired a car & cruised the island, visiting waterfalls, night markets & the ever tantalizing Cable Car & Hanging Bridge! Georgetown, Penang captivated us with it’s incredible feeling of ‘livability’ & friendliness, while the Cameron Highlands enticed us with it’s cool climate and a great cup-of-tea!!! The Perhentians allowed Ania to complete her PADI Open Water course in an environment both of us would almost call ‘an island paradise’! Accompanied by our Polish friend Marta & her 6 year old daughter Sara, a week here was blissful, and we were reluctant to leave. KL with it’s food markets was almost a budget breaker! We were close to having to buy an entirely new wardrobe, considering the amount very good & cheap food we consumed!!! Only now have we successfully got rid of the tummy bulge! Malacca was a brilliant step back in colonial history, with the Maritime Museum being a must visit for anyone, even if you only take photos from outside!

Singapore was one of the Biggest Highlights of our trip, thanks to Nik, her family, Hazel & Joanne! We were treated like part of the family, and had the most amazing time enjoying much of what Singapore had to offer! Sentosa Island, the Botanical Gardens, A/C Shopping Malls, Clarke Quay, the Skypark on top of the Mariana Bay Sands, and not to mention the rehearsal for the National Day Extravaganza! We also had the privilege of having local guides who took there time showing us around & introducing us to some incredibly tasty local flavours! Thank you so very much guys!!! We can’t wait to go back!!!

Our Indonesian Odyssey began in Bali, meeting up with another Great Friend and his partner. We were met at the airport and taken back to our accommodation in Candidasa, which is on the East Coast of Bali, about an hour away from Kuta. The next 2 weeks were spent investigating all Bali had to offer, well almost. We even hired a Scooter for 5 days, and travelled all through the island, clocking up about 600kms!!! Some of the most stunning scenery we’ve ever seen, we discovered while driving on remote local roads through Bali! Our journeying was enhanced by teaming up for various excursions with our friends Erskine & Jules, and Jules’ parents! Thanks guys for allowing us to be part of your holiday!!!

We have now spent about 1 week on Java, and have reached the illustrious city of Bandung! Misty & Mysterious views of Mt Bromo were one of our first experiences on this very densely populated but magically vibrant island. Java has surprises on offer around every corner, and never fails to deliver in excitement! Although our views of Bromo were shrouded, it has made us hunt out the very essence of this intriguing country! The allure of Borobudur, the largest Buddhist Monument in the World, was always in our sights, and combining this with the Hindu Temples of Prambanan made for an unforgettable day out! Yogyakarta (pron. Jog-ja-car-ta), despite it being a large city, was unexpectedly relaxed & very friendly. We were glad to have a few days there to soak up the atmosphere! Bandung has proved to continue the traditional Indonesian friendliness, even though the city is swarming with traffic & is limited in attractiveness. We have still throughly enjoyed our time here, especially the very novel ‘Jeans Street’!

We are now about to embark on the last leg of our Indonesian, not to mention SE Asian, travels! Bogor is the next destination, with the capital Jakarta to follow. We don’t know what either will present us with, but have no real concerns, as the welcome from anyone in this country is always a SMILE!!!

Australia is only a week away, and has a lot to live upto considering our experiences so far, but we do not hesitate to believe it will offer us, as only Australia can, it’s unique antipodean flavours & adventures!!! We are eager to see our family & friends, and are looking forward to the next travel chapter!

Thank you for continuing to follow our blog, especially when considering the erratic story updates! Thank goodness Ania is far better uploading those somewhat mesmeric memorable moments!

I promise to complete the story archive very soon!!!

Much Love & Travel Karma Always!!!

Should you have a few moments to spare I’ve been lucky with good internet connection and decided to load up some photos here. Kelvin is eager to write more blog updates just hasn’t had the opportunity to do so yet. We have had some great experiences in Southern Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia. There will be plenty to tell, and I’m sure Kelvin will entertain you with the stories! For now, just the pictures. Enjoy! xoxox

Hello Everyone!

We’re currently in Malacca, Malaysia and will be heading down to Singapore on Friday! Monday afternoon will see us flying out to Indonesia for 4 weeks, the last country on our SE Asia tour! We’ve had an Absolute Blast so far, and are looking forward to the final installment! August will see us in Australia, while we fly into NZ in mid-Sept in time to catch the Rugby World Cup!

We can fortunately share some Fantastic News with regards to our Metal Malaria affected laptop! Whether it was the cooler climes of the Cameron Highlands, or just a well needed break, we have successfully re-awakened our tough little travel companion. With this joyful occurrence has meant some travel updates, which we have posted on our Web-Blog. Please feel free to read & view a your leisure. We’re still a bit behind, but will endeavour to bring you all up to speed soon!

Mind you we must share one wee adventure that has been experienced recently. Ania has successfully completed her PADI Open Water Diving Qualification!!! She had a small hiccup early on, but managed to continue on, and is now keen to do more diving given the chance! I’m Very Proud of her!!!

Well, I’ll leave the rest of the story telling for later! We both hope everything is going well for you! For those in Australia & New Zealand – HERE WE COME!!!

We’re afraid we have to inform you of a small, but significant, tragedy that has befallen one of our travel technologies! Being the budget ‘flashpackers’ that we are, we were sorely shaken when our little Asus computer refrained from booting up yesterday. This sturdy & reliable laptop has been travelling with us for some time, joining us through Africa, Poland, New Zealand, India & SE Asia! We will miss it’s companionship very much, but will continue to hold out hope that it is a mere minor form of metallic malaria, and that it’ll recover in time. This does, however, put my travel blog writing at a dis-advantage. Please be patient, and I will endeavour to keep you informed of our where-abouts & adventures, to the best of my ability! Now, if we could have a moments silience……………..

Thank you, your understanding and shared emotions mean a lot!

Now, just a quick update! We are currently in Krabi, Southern Thailand, and are about to embark on the next leg of our travels! We will be heading to Malaysia in the next day or 2, with the view of travelling there for about 3 weeks! Singapore will be next, closely followed by Indonesia! We know, it’s going to be tough, but we’re prepared to ‘Take One For The TEAM’!!! If anyone else would like to join us in this tough world of travel & adventure, please don’t hesitate to contact us. We’re sure the ‘TEAM’ will also be grateful! The more the merrier! Many hands make light work! And other such cliches!

The last few weeks has seen us travelling down through Vietnam, and back into Thailand. We have spent the last 3 weeks in the South, travelling from the East coast to the West. We had to check out a couple of these islands, just to make sure they were what people said they were – Beautiful & Relaxing! As for our own evaluation – I’ll let Ania’s photos on the Blog tell you! But believe me when I say, you might have to censor your photo viewing time, some photos may bring about waves of emotion, namely jealousy!!!

Anyway, we both THANK YOU ALL very much for your interest in & support of our travels. We hope you enjoy the stories, all be they long, and photos, especially if they entice you! We hope to continue our updates, even if they are a bit more belated than usual!

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) is a frenetic, fast-paced, energetic metropolis boundless with enthusiasm even as it’s teaming with traffic. You can’t help by being infected with its buzz & zest for life! Saigon’s history is as captivating as its present, let alone what the future may hold. Currently Vietnam’s largest city, it is still growing at an exceptional rate and has become the centre for industry & commerce.

With a large traffic jam slowing down proceedings, we ambled into the capricious city. Our destination was the area around Pham Ngu Lao, where most of the cheaper accommodation was located. We were hoping to get settled quickly, as our last supper together was imminent!

Our first attempt at locating some good Bia Hoi failed! The formaldehyde flavoured concotion that was delivered to our table, was neither tasty nor good value. Our dis-satisfaction was illustrated by the speed of our departure. A slow wander then took us around some of the nearby streets, allowing us to soak up some of the atmosphere, while still looking for those elusive taste-bud temptations. Finally settling on a restaurant with a bit of local spirit!

Last Supper over, we fortunately found another Bia Hoi bar, that provided that much needed resolution to our travels together. Andrea & Sven were off to Con Dao to do some diving, Bevan was shooting through to Siem Reap to view Angkor, leaving Brian & Lois and us in Saigon. The four of us would meet again the next day, but for the others this was Goodbye. We hoped to see Bevan in Bangkok, & Andrea & Sven in Switzerland – or would it be Brazil?!

With Sven & Andrea retiring to bed, the rest of us decided to take Bevan out for a last night cocktail! Bar selected & drinks bought, we indulged in some good ole laughs together, with a few photos to remember it all by. As soon as we finished our beverages, the party was moved back to Lois & Brian’s room where it was determined that it would be a good idea to drink a bottle of red wine! At least we didn’t have to get up at 5.30am to catch a bus!!!

Morning was a quiet affair. Not only had I got up early to ensure Bevan would catch his bus, but we had agreed to meet Sven & Andrea for a quick breakfast before they went to the airport. It was a sullen morning, with none of us gaining much pleasure in the final farewells.

The rest of the day was spent assessing what options we had for a trip to the Mekong Delta, and trying to get our packs & travel plans in order. Later that evening we met up with Brian & Lois for one last Bia Hoi & Dinner together, exchanging rough itineraries with a view that we might bump into each other in Malaysia. Bed was a welcome relief considering the late night/long day!

The Mekong Delta is the stuff of dreams! Sporting vivid green rice paddies to rich tropical fruit gardens, combining them with a myriad of differently sized channels & canals and a sky adorned with heavy black thunder clouds! A highlight of a delta visit is a trip down these river paths offering the opportunity to discover the copious array of inventive industry & commerce.

Although our pick-up was late, we were excited for our upcoming sojourn. Arriving at My Tho, we took a boat ride to a Bee Centre offering Honey & Pollen Tea with Ginger Sweets! I also had a photo with the family python around my neck. Ania wasn’t so keen! Next on the list was a Tropical Fruit garden, where we were allowed to sample a range of different fruits at the same time as being entertained by some local musicians & performers. A confined canal boat ride through a very busy channel was the last adventure before settling down for some lunch. Here we officially met Andy & Suzy, who had been travelling for a few weeks in Vietnam. The Delta excursion was the last of their experiences before Andy returned to the UK, and Suzy to NZ.

Dessert was another riverboat ride away, as we got the tantalizing prospect of sampling variously flavoured coconut sweets. You could try plain, chocolate, ginger, peanut & even dorian flavoured sweets. The temptation was all too much, and not only did we try every flavour, but we just HAD to buy some as well. They were dangerously moorish!!!

A transfer bus ride to Can Tho, the largest urban centre in the Delta, allowed us to traverse the longest expansion bridge in Vietnam, in excess of 2.7km. It is over the Hau River, the biggest distributary of the Mekong. Built with Japanese assistance, there was an unfortunate accident in 2007, during construction, which killed more than 50 people. However it is now completed an stands proudly overlooking the city.

Evening was a mix of a lovely local meal in a nearby restaurant, with a pleasant stroll down the riverside promenade to follow. The enjoyable environment was accentuated by the prominence of local visitors rather than tourists. Many were eating from street stalls & purchasing items from the night market. Looking out over the river provided a wonderful view of the well-lite bridge, while underneath a multi-coloured party boat pumped out music!

We retired to our room reasonably early, and just as well we did. The Thunderstorm that unleashed it’s fury, happened only minutes after we returned. The sky was thick with cloud, and the rain extremely heavy. We had a top level room which gave us a great view over the city. Lightening Bolts lite up the sky like day, while the Thunder Cracks shook the foundations of our guest house & shuddered deep in your bones. It continued for quite a while, with our room eventually leaking!

Morning activities were plentiful. An early departure to the Floating Market, where we saw Brian & Lois briefly, was proceeded with a visit to a small family run business manufacturing rice noodles. The last, and probably appropriately so, was another trip into the wonders of a Fruit Garden. The flavours of eating these fruit from the source, beats any examples of them you can purchase in the supermarkets back home!!! Another leisurely boat ride, and we were back on the bus bound for Saigon.

The group we had met, (Andy, Suzy, Gareth, Nina & Tilman) arranged to meet for dinner, and maybe some cocktails! After a refreshing shower, Ania & I went to book our Cu Chi Tunnel trip for the next day. At the time it seemed like a good idea! Walking down the street we suddenly heard our names called, and turned to find two girls, Rachel & Laura, whom we had met in Hoi An & Nha Trang. The were keen to join us for some cocktails, which was to go against their plans of an early night!

Dinner was a lush affair, as we appreciated the taste sensations of even more local food. We followed it with a rather large cocktail in a vase! Yes, that’s what I said – A VASE!!! Gladly there was 5 straws so those who were consuming could share. We soon moved to another bar offering a 241 special, and unfortunately for us, remained there until the early hours!

The Cu Chi Tunnels were initially built by the Viet Minh, and were then extended by the Viet Cong. Eventually they encompassed approximately 250km worth of underground passageways. Originally the tunnels were small & narrow, built for the slight Vietnamese frame, however the section we visited have been enlarged so ‘Westerners’ can get a sense of what they might have been like! Famous as the launchpad of the Tet Offensive in 1968, once the American troupes found them, the used various methods to ‘smoke out’ the enemy. Over 40,000 VC were killed inside the underground complex!

Awakening to a tired body & lack-lustre mind did not bode well for an subsurface adventure!
Our minibus’s first stop was a Handicraft Centre, who gainfully employed people who had obtained disabilities due to the war. Their artistry was impeccable and we were both tempted to buy something. However such is the backpackers life, that we opted not too. Somethings, unfortunately, are too awkward to carry.

Our tour guide for the day regaled us with many stories about the war. Apparently he had served alongside the American forces, and attempted to inform us of the position from both sides. His tales from the war were enthralling, having never heard such a perspective before, it gave us something to think about.

The tour around Cu Chi shows you the various techniques used by the VC to hide, build weapons, & attack ‘the enemy’. Part way through, you have an option to shoot an AK47, M16, or firearm of your choice from the list provided. All for a ‘tourist’ price, as you would expect. We thought this a little weird & disrespectful, but many others did not. The last experience of the tour was what everyone comes for – A Walk-Through the Tunnels! It is indeed very tight, even if they have widened them. They are also very hot & humid. I began to wonder how the VC soldiers coped down here. The tunnels are split over 3 levels, with connecting downwards passages. They are elaborate in their design, including many tricks to ensure it would be hard for the opposing forces to navigate easily.

We requested a drop-off at the War Remnants Museum once we were back in Saigon. This museum gives the Vietnamese overview of the war, and is dedicated to showing you some of the most outrageous atrocities that were committed in the attempt for peace & unity! Outside we found examples of bombs, helicopters, tanks & planes, while inside displays some of the most thought provoking & gut wrenching photography you’ll ever see! Photos of people killed by napalm, children screaming with phosphorous burns, and the deformities suffered by those whose parents were doused with Agent Orange. Numerous pictures tell a horrifying story, and illustrate, often in stark colour, people’s inhumanity to each other.

A mellow walk back to our accommodation, followed by a refreshing shower and we were ready to meet up with Tilman for a beer. Dinner followed Bia Hoi, with a leisurely stroll around the area to determine where best to go. We soon settled on the previous nights choice, and merrily ate our fill. No Vase Cocktails this night!

Our last full day in Saigon started with a sleep-in. We arose late & selected a cafe for breakfast before wandering off to find various attractions around the city. Ducking down narrow alleyways and creeping through unusual alcoves seemed the order of the day. We soon reached Saigon’s version of Notre Dame Cathedral, which I must say is nothing like the original! Meandering past the post office, we also decided to nip into our bank for a quick accounts check, and to be honest, cool down using the A/C! Later in the afternoon we reached the riverbank & took stock of our Vietnamese travels.

There is a musical show called ‘Miss Saigon’, in which there comes a song entitled ‘Bui Doi’. The song defines this as ‘Dust of Life’ and refers the meaning to the children that were born from Vietnamese mothers, but had American GI fathers. These children had been ostracized by society and were often institutionalized for fear they would negatively affect the population. Gazing over the Saigon River, I reflected on our travels through the country – from the Glorious Mountains of Sapa, the Captivating Karsts of Halong Bay, the Exquisite Architecture of Hue & Hoi An, the Friendly Atmosphere of Dalat, and the Magic & Mystery of Saigon. Memories also stirred about the stories of the tunnels and the photographic images from the museum. I began to think, are we not all a form of the ‘Dust of Life’? Aren’t we all affected by the tragedy of war? Isn’t everyone born of different parents, religions, races or creeds? Why then do we insist on such gross forms of inhumanity?

With philosophy pushed aside, we wandered back to our room, writing postcards & sending emails. A final Bia Hoi was a must with a relaxing dinner to follow. Morning would see us take a mad & crazy taxi ride to the airport for our flight & return to Thailand! What beach side adventures awaited us back there?

It was a relatively short drive to Hoi An, but it allowed us to drive down the coast going through the Hai Van Pass, Danang & passing by China Beach & the Marble Mountains. Arriving at our destination, we were again swarmed with accommodation hawkers, offering us ‘supposedly’ the best deals in town! We opted for a bit of a wander around town so we could best determine the best place for us to stay. It was a good decision, but one that ended up involving a lot of walking around and negotiating, and in the heat of the day was a lot more energy sapping than anticipated!

Rooms organised, a late lunch was next on the list, with the group of us deciding on one of small street restaurants where local food was served as well as Bia Hoi for 3000 Dong (15 US cents!!!). A dangerous thing to discover after a long walk around town in the heat of the day!

Hoi An is another one of Vietnam’s UNESCO World Heritage sites. Its peaceful & tranquil ambiance is reflected in the happiness & friendliness of the people. Two hundred years ago, during its prime, trade thrived, and in this prosperous little port arose some of the most exquisite Clan Houses & Family Chapels. Most of which remain, with only minor alterations. Many tourists come, not only to gaze at the splendid architecture, but to pick themselves up a inexpensive, but good quality, tailored suit or dress!

Ania & I spent the first couple of days wandering the streets of this captivating town, admiring all the idiosyncratic designs of not only the buildings, but also the outfits! An unusual example of this is the Japanese Covered Bridge or Cau Nhat Ban. Built in the 1500′s, it has acquired its name by the local belief that it was constructed by the Japanese, although there is no evidence to support this. However, this does not detract from the incredible detail contained in the structure!

As we wandered the narrow pathways, the secretive small streets began to reveal their hidden magic, and it seemed every corner turned offered us a new treasure trove of things to entice our imaginations. Whether it be a intricate painting or handicraft to a beautifully tailored dress, or a stunningly designed building, Hoi An was definitely ambrosia for the eyes!

At one point, Ania assisted our friend Andrea in the tailoring of her Wedding Dress! While the girls were off viewing materials, examining patterns, and assessing designs, Sven & I thought it was not only prudent, but our duty to perform some quality checks on the local beverages! It was a hot day, and pleasant walk around the old town was encouraged by the fact we could pop into a few local drinking holes to quench our ever increasing thirst!

The third day saw a larger group of us hire a minivan for the day, and visit the Marble Mountains & China Beach. Don’t let them fool you, the Marble Mountains are not made of marble, in fact they are limestone karsts with marble outcrops. They are representative of the 5 elements – fire, water, metal, wood & soil – and historically were a sacred site. They also assisted the Viet Cong during the war, as it gave them a great vantage point overlooking Danang airbase. The mountains are littered with caves & grottoes, many of which have been transformed into dedication temples.

Purchasing tickets for a ride up on the elevator to the top, we all split up and proceeded to do our own investigations. Each time a new cave entrance was discovered, every effort was employed to maximise the adventure within. All the caves & grottoes had hidden passages, and it was our job to find them! Sliding through narrow cracks, and climbing up makeshift stairways added to the mysteries & secrets contained inside. Sacred altars & statues enhanced the escapade, adding to the immense beauty that nature had created. It was a marvellous way to spend 2-3 hours, despite the humidity & heat. The views from the top of the highest mountain were incredible, and easy to appreciate why the VC harrowed the US troupes below during the war!

Resigned to the fact that cave clambering was finished, China Beach became the focus for the afternoon. Named by the US GIs who would use it as a retreat during the war, it is actually still owned by the Vietnamese Military. They called it T20 Beach while locally it is referred to as My Khe.

Being dropped off at the beach’s head allowed us to run directly into the water for a well earned refreshing swim! Fine White sand & clean water are a great feature of this setting, and we easily whiled away a few hours here. The only slightly annoying aspect was the fact that you had to pay $2 for sitting in the shade of an umbrella. A little hiccup, but one that was overcome by basing ourselves at a nearby local beach-front restaurant, which was eager to supply us with food & refreshments for a much more reasonable price!

Facing another night bus journey, we arose late, and had a quiet breakfast before returning to complete packing. Ania was due to assist in Andrea’s final dress fitting, while Sven & I accomplished various internet related tasks. Eventually the group met up for a late lunch at a Mexican Restaurant – Bevan’s Choice – where afterwards we had to say our ‘Goodbye’s’ to Nick & Sonya. They were heading straight to Saigon, and we were off to Nha Trang.

Being considered as Vietnam’s only real seaside town, Nha Trang has a rather leisurely pace. Once a sleepy fishing village, its economy is now primarily based around tourism, which is not hard to see regard the number of beach front resorts. Despite this, the town is relatively hassle free, and with us arriving very early in the morning, we were able to make the most of the day!

Time was spent between walking the streets for food & drink, and relaxing on the beach. It was a lovely relaxing day, which was all that was wanted after another night bus journey. Later in the day we all met up for a meal, and then proceeded to have a balcony party with a few beers & wine while overlooking the beach front below.

Arising early to catch our bus to Dalat, we were surprised to find it was another sleeper coach. Not that it ultimately bothered us, as the drive was amazingly scenic, and views afforded us were best appreciated lying down – well that’s our story and we’re sticking to it!

Dalat being at 1500m, brought us back to cooler climes, and we all valued the change. Dumping our packs in the room, we set off for a look around the town, especially the market. After perusing the vibrancy of the stalls with all their wares, we sat at a local restaurant and ordered some food. It was pleasant to relax outside, without the heaviness of the high humidity we had experienced over the last 2 weeks.

Bevan, Ania & I set off for a jaunt around town & by the lake. Admiring the relaxed pace of life and the intriguing character of the city was much easier than expected. The locals were very smiley and friendly, eager to converse & help out if we needed. Being that Dalat is the Honeymoon Capital of Southern Vietnam, Ania & I felt it was exceedingly well organised on our behalf, that we were spending our 3rd Wedding Anniversary here!

The group was invited, and with ‘Tu Anh’s Peace Cafe’ selected as the venue, a Fantastic Evening ensued. We ate, drank & chatted merrily, with Tu Anh (the owner), singing us her rendition of ABBA’s – I Have A Dream! It got quite late, & with the amount consumed, we all retired to our beds, scarily with visions of Vietnamese ABBA tribute bands!

Dalat offers a range of various natural sights to see, from picturesque cascading waterfalls to jungle-capped volcanic peaks. Each laced with its own allurement. Considering the previous nights celebrations, the morning started with us all eating a large breakfast to soak up the remainder, before we hired scooters for a day’s outing. Sven & Andrea were heading for the waterfalls, the rest of us fancied a bit of a climb!

Negotiating the madness that is Vietnamese traffic is a feat in itself. It may look like total mayhem, but, believe it or not, everyone is watching where they’re going and you only have to keep your wits about you! Best policy & advice I can give is – ‘When in Rome…’

Our aim for the day was to climb Langbian Mountain at 2400m. Not a strenuous height, especially if you’re starting at about 1500m. The ride there was a combination of an exercise in map reading & Vietnamese translation. On a few occasions we had to stop and ask for directions. However with the goal achieved, bikes parked, we headed up a road in search of our target. At first we thought it was going to be a simple task, as the road, although very steep, was well paved. Being slightly disappointed in this aspect, we marched on hoping for a more daring off-road trail. As the saying goes you sometimes get what you asked for!

After 40mins walking up this steep road, we found a turn off for the mountain path. The real trekking was about to start, and we were eager for the challenge. As paths go, the initial trail was rather mundane, but it soon changed, turning into a great little trail through the jungle. Humidity was high under the canopy, but this kind of sweat only encouraged more! We reach a rather steep incline, that proved not only energy sapping, but almost took your breath away – literally! However, the view from the top was worth it! We all sat down, took out our bakery snack lunches, and admired the view, our sweaty wet tops drying in the wind! A sense of calm & satisfaction settled over us as we embraced our achievement & gazed over the vista below!

Returning to town was a somewhat stimulating experience, as we arrived during rush-hour! Now, if we thought there had been many scooters on the road when we left mid-morning, we were rather astounded to see 3 times as many on our return. With helmets on tight & eyes wide open, traffic negotiating was our next challenge, and I’m happy to say we were successful! We even decided to go and visit one of Dalat’s more unusual attractions – The Crazy House!

The Crazy House is actually the Hang Nga Guest House, and as stated you can actually stay here. If sleeping in a mushroom or a tree, drinking tea under a giant cobweb, or basically living out ‘Alice in Wonderland’ fantasies is your idea of fun, then this is the place for you! You can sleep in rooms called the Tiger Sanctuary, Eagle’s Nest and Bear Cave. And if you really are up for an experience, how about sleeping in the room called Termite Mound! Don’t ask us who your bed pals might be, we didn’t stay there!!!

With a final drive around the lake at sunset, we reluctantly returned our scooters. At least another dinner at ‘Tu Anh’s’ place would cheer us up! Or so we hoped!

It was with a sense of reservation, we boarded our bus the next morning bound for Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). We had enjoyed our stay in Dalat, and were not overly enthusiastic about the fast paced life of the city or the humidity. Such are the stresses of the travellers life! As it was though, our travelling family was finally splitting up. From Saigon we would all go our separate ways, with hopes that maybe one day we would cross paths again!

Hanoi was its usual busy & bustling self upon our return from Halong Bay. We quickly set about finding some accommodation which was proving to be remarkably difficult. The apparent arrangement we had made with the manager of our previous guest-house in Hanoi had fallen through, no doubt because we had not booked our Halong Boat with him, so we were forced to troll the streets of the Old Quarter looking for alternatives. This was made all the more challenging as it was a public holiday, and budget hotels were full. The power of positive thought is often amazing, and we were pleasantly surprised that after some arduous hunting, we landed ourselves a better room for the same price as before! Such are the ways of travel!

Since the previous nights had been filled with entertainment of various kinds, we decided to eat, sleep & be merry the next day!

Hanoi’s Horrendously Heavy Humidity welcomed us as we stepped out from our guest-house the next morning. We were glad that our room had air-conditioning, and were to find throughout our Vietnamese travels that this was normally standard, and could appreciate why. It systematically sucked our energy away, & even drinking a great deal of water didn’t seem to halt the advance of tiredness & lethargy. We ambled around the Hoan Kiem Lake, crossing the Huc Bridge, & visiting the small Ngoc Son temple on the island, and enjoying the soft breeze. This lake & island have a rather intriguing tale, which is very similar to the Arthurian legend of England. The lakes name is translated as Lake of the Restored Sword, and the story refers to a famous victory by Emperor Le Thai To, & upon his triumphant return to Hanoi he was sailing on the lake when a Golden Turtle appeared. He returned the charmed sword, which had secured his success, to the guardian of the lake.

We also wandered down to see the Hanoi Opera House, which looks like it had just step out of Europe. Such an obvious reflection of the influences the French have had on Vietnam.

A chore of the day was to organise our onward travel down through Vietnam. The country offers are great & reliable tourist bus service. You can pay around US$40 and get buses from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City, which allow you to hop-on & off at various places. Price is dictated by how many stops you make, and how hard you barter! We had a group, so that added to our bartering position. After a few stops at a selection of travel agents, we purchased tickets for all the stops we wanted to make. Some journeys were to be overnight, and as cost-saving as they may be, none of us were thrilled at the prospects of sleeping on a bus!

Eventually, after considerable debate & arm-twisting, we resolved the Bia Hoi issue, and determined that it was time to introduce Sven & Andrea to the local delicacy! First stop though was dinner, we weren’t going to get caught out again! A longish night transpired, with many jokes, stories & discussions flowing. The party moved from the local street beer joints to a Dracula Themed bar, where convoluted cocktail conversations continued, as did few bleary eyed games of pool! With a slow & sweaty meander back to our room, we were pleased to be greeted by air-conditioning!

Our mid-morning response time was mediocre at best, and we slowly set about packing our bags & refreshing our bodies in preparation for the upcoming overnight journey to Hue. The humidity had not improved, so after meeting up with everyone, we quickly de-camped to an air-conditioned restaurant for body replenishing sustenance! With stomachs satisfied, any thoughts of walking the streets in the heat were still unwelcome. An option included a cold iced drink at the ‘Facebook Cafe’, which was a enticing idea. Feeling as we did, a bit of internet time was desirable!

One of the attractions of Hanoi is the Famous Water Puppet Theatre. Interested in a cultural performance, Sven, Andrea, Ania & I all decided to purchase tickets as our last activity in the capital. It was a wonderful display of skill & artistry. There were about 8 short story skits, which were filled with amazing puppetry, beautiful puppets & great humour. The accompanying musicians were also Fantastic, and although it was only 45 minutes long, we left wanting more!

Alas, our overnight bus ride was imminent. We returned to our guest-house, and were allowed to have a refreshing shower before boarding a rather cramped mini-van to our awaiting bus. With standing room only, we raced through the hectic streets of Hanoi. We all hoped the bus-ride would be much more comfortable! Surprisingly, the bus was reasonably comfortable. We all had private sleeper berths, and could pretty much stretch out. It seemed as we had no sooner readied ourselves, than the lights were turned off, and after some starlight gazing, sleep quickly ensued!

The Imperial City of Hue was next on our itinerary, and after a long journey we were glad to arrive. Hue provided no respite from the humidity, and even though it was early-ish in the morning, we could tell the day was going to be another hot & heavy one! Taking a room at the guest-house we found ourselves in front of, it was determined that a refresh & some relaxation were required.

Hue was once the capital of Vietnam, and sits on the banks of the Perfume River. There are many temples in the surrounding area, as well as the famous Imperial City, which is built using similar principles to that of the Forbidden Place in Beijing. Four of us had lunch on a floating restaurant, overlooking the walls of the city on the opposite riverbank, contemplating the power rulers that had once sat enthroned there!

Unfortunately Ania was not feeling very well, which saw us soon after eating retire to our room. As her sense of un-wellness increased we made a visit to the local hospital to have her assessed. An interesting exercise it proved to be, especially considering the cleanliness of certain areas. The service, however, was brilliant, and we left with positive sounds of a quick recovery.

Another period of air-con assisted unwinding, and we met up with the others for a culinary excursion to a local food festival! On the way, Brian & Lois purchased us all some funky straw hats & we were ready for action! The early evening was pleasantly sticky, and we seemed to be some of the first to arrive at the taste extravaganza. Entrance was free, but you had to exchange money for tokens, which allowed to to purchase your coveted novel nutrients up to the value you wanted. There were many stalls offering a wide range of tempting local delicacies, and we eagerly investigated them all. After determining our desired flavours, we settled down on grass mats to gratify our gurgling bellies!

As evening progressed, the festival filled up with many people, all as eager as we had been to indulge their taste buds! We decided to have a wander, as the sticky humid feeling had diminished a little. Our mindless meanderings took us along the river’s edge, where we found a lovely little locals drink bar which allowed us to gaze upon a very colourfully lit bridge. With a couple of beers consumed we headed back to our air-con’d rooms for some much needed sleep!

Morning saw Ania on the improve, and we were excited to discover what more Hue had to offer! Meeting the guys for a late breakfast, we negotiated hireage of a boat for a trip down the river, calling in at the Thien Mu Pagoda, a couple of small temples and with a visit to Emperor Minh Mang’s Tomb.

Thien Mu Pagoda is stunning, and is beautifully situated on the banks of the river. Within the complex is contained the Great Bell – weighing 2,200kg, a Giant Marble Turtle – in which is carved the story of Buddhism in Hue, and the seven-storey Happiness & Grace Tower. There is also the oldest monastery in Hue, from which came Thich Quang Duc, the first monk to commit suicide through self immolation. The old grey Austin car, in which he made his last drive to Saigon, is kept in the garage overlooking the garden.

The Tomb of Emperor Minh Mang is quite unbelievable. The decoration & level of complexity is remarkable. We journeyed through each ‘level’ of the sacred site marveling at the immensity of work that such a elaborate construction must of taken. Just when you though you had reached the tomb, you only found out it was another spiritual temple dedicated to an element of the Emperor’s life or specific belief. The gardens were fantastic, and you truly felt it was a walk through life till death! Unfortunately, the tomb is unattainable as it resides on top of a small hill surrounded by a big circular fence with a large & locked bronze door!

Upon our return to Hue, we had an enjoyable evening as we pampered our paunches with a delightful array of food & beer. Actually we had one of the most memorable beers Vietnam was to provide, and named after the very city in which it was brewed – Hue Beer! The night ended with another early retirement, especially considering another early departure for the next adventure! What taunting tailors & beautiful buildings were waiting for us in Hoi An?!

Whether it was too much Bia Hoi, or maybe not enough sleep the night before, but the bus ride to Halong Bay was, for whatever reason, hilariously funny. We all found the simplest of jokes or stories extremely humourous despite the early departure. Crawling out of bed, we pleasantly discovered that Sven & Andrea had arrived in Hanoi and were eager to join us in Halong Bay. A phone call made, and they were included in our group – the family was back together!

Halong means ‘descending dragon’, and as legend tells, a dragon crash into the sea creating this stunning bay as it thrashed about. The area encompasses 1969 limestone karst islands, which are the product of millions of years of geological processes. It was also the sight of 2 historical sea battles, and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Bus journey completed, we transferred into a small boat which took us to our rather luxurious ‘Halong Junk’ called “Elizabeth Sails”. With checking in accomplished, a delicious lunch was served consisting of at least 6 separate dishes. Impressive was one way to describe it! We then weighed anchor, and cruised off to see one of the intricate caves within the bay.

Hang Hanh is a large vacuous cave which is hauntingly spectacular, especially the variety of stalagmites & stalactites, which with a bit of imagination can turn into people, animals, and even demons! Luckily we had a guide to protect us from such creatures of the mind as we lazily wandered around the cave absorbing all the magical images. Next door was a smaller cave, with a high ceiling, that had once been used as a hospital & school. I’m not sure those that had attended would have been at all impressed about the demonic representations lurking mere metres away from them!

Cave dwelling concluded, we embarked on a more physical activity – kayaking. In a floating village, located in a small bay amongst the islands, we all piled into 2-person kayaks, and set off for a 45min discovery of the neighbouring small bays & caves. Kayaking offers you an enjoyable way for some quiet contemplation of the surrounding environment. However, no sooner did it feel that we had set out, than we had to return. We were due back on the boat for some more cruising, and an eventual stop in the bay where we were to spend the night, but not before we had engaged in some swimming & Top-Deck jumping!!!

Dinner was another tasty yet extravagant affair as we were treated to another wide assortment of dishes, of which everyone’s favorite were the stuffed crabs! With plates emptied & glasses refreshed, the staff proceeded to entice everyone’s participation in their popular past-time – Karaoke! Some of us were less enthused about such entertainment, but were happy to be ‘backing vocals’ & moral support. As the night wore on, and more drinks were consumed, the party became rather boisterous, and most got up with microphone in hand! The vocal ability was expansive, not to mention the song selection!

An early basic breakfast followed a raucous night of singing, with some voices showing signs of straining. Day bags packed, and we were ready for our Cat Ba island excursion. Our group had selected to visit the National Park, and go for a nice little trek to a viewing tower. Apparently Jandals (Flip-Flops, Thongs) were more than appropriate footwear, so off we went with expectations high for a great little adventure. And what an adventure it was too!

Arriving at the gate of the National Park, we obtained the services of a guide, to show us the way & what paths to take. Apparently it was an easy well trodden, path so we were surprised a guide was needed. However, no sooner had we started on the paved path, than it turned into a mud track, where we found our ‘appropriate footwear’ was no longer suitable. As things went it was all a part of the adventure, however when we reached the final steep climb our level of apprehension increased. Not that ascending was to difficult, but descending was not only looking like a challenge, but more of a death-wish!

Speaking of death-wishes, we were greeted with another one upon arrival at our goal. It was a look-out tower, which gave commanding views over the entire area. We have NEVER seen such a unsafe decrepit rusty old platform. An almost illegible sign informed us that only 5 people were allowed on the tower at a time, but that did not stop our guide insisting that all those that wanted, had to climb immediately! With our hearts in our mouths, & with positive thoughts of the strength of rusty metal a few of us made the ascent. The view was spectacular, even though there was misty clouds, it just added to the mystique, as did the constant wobbling of the tower!!!

We all successfully reached the bottom, not only of the tottering tower, but also the precarious path. Deep Breaths all-round along with splashes of cool water to refresh the face, however we would have to wait to wash off the river of sweat running down our backs!

Lunch was the next order of the day, with a short walk around Cat Ba Town to follow. We then all jumped back on a boat and headed for Monkey Island. As its name would suggest, there are monkeys on this little island, that are rather cheeky if you get too close. We had an option to either trek or kayak – Ania & I chose to kayak. Along with some others, we set off around the island. We discovered some small little ocean caves carved out of the limestone cliffs. Curiosity got the better of us so we ventured inside so discover what marvels awaited. Elaborate channels & wonky chimneys (blow-holes) often greeted us, with most of them being to small or dangerous to investigate further. However we still enjoyed the spectacle and admired the power of the sea working its artistic magic!

Bevan & I were keen to do some rock face jumping, and proceeded to lookout for an appropriately safe jump point. After some searching & scrambling over sharp limestone outcrops, we found a decent launch platform! Preparations made, we released our inner-jumpers, admittedly without subtlety or grace, but with copious amounts of enthusiasm & shouting!

Back on the boat, we cruised in towards Cat Ba Town, stopping at the jetty to wait for our mini-bus transport back to Halong Junk. While waiting we chanced upon a shop selling cheap cold beers. Because the bar at our ‘junk’ was rather expensive & over-priced, we decided to indulge in a few quick & quiet beers. Not only did we have a couple of quickies, but we secretly bought some more for the boat, as well as a bottle of questionably cheap vodka!

Our arrival back on-board was greeted with a request to refresh with speed, as dinner, & some new guests, were awaiting. Showers completed, we filled the empty spaces at tables, and proceeded to throughly enjoy another great meal! Afterwards the staff were eagerly encouraging another Karaoke fun-filled evening, but most of us retired to the top-deck for some salubrious alcohol assisted conversation which continued until the early hours.

Morning awakened us with not only cloudy skies, but some what cloudy heads. To refresh & invigorate the mind, some of us resorted to a few top-deck jumps into the water. This had the miraculous shocking affect we were expecting, and all of a sudden the day began to look a lot brighter!

Unfortunately with breakfast concluded, so was our Halong experience. All we had left was a quietly relaxed slow, but hot, cruise back to port. Even with that thought in our minds, we were glad at our ‘leap of faith’ decision was a good one, for we all knew that we would live the memories for a lot longer!!!